August 2024 Shenk’s & Bomberger’s Tasting

August 11, 2024
By Rebecca Herman McBrayer 

It is hard to believe that this time last week Wayne and I had just returned from our amazing Louisville, Chocolate, and Bourbon – Oh My! weekend. Our typical trips to Louisville are event-driven. It might be a dinner, a specific distillery experience, or even a bottle release. Last weekend was different. The trip was focused on seeing a long-time friend who would be there for the weekend. It was about friendship, sharing our passion for bourbon, exploring new things, and reconnecting with great friends from afar as well as in the local area. While not on a “bottle hunt” we are always open when a situation presents itself.

The Michter’s Shenk’s and Bomberger’s are typically very challenging to acquire as so few are made each year. While in Louisville, we wanted to share The Bar at Michter’s with our friends. We walked into Michter’s at 4:30 PM on Friday afternoon and I noticed the combination package sitting on the counter. I inquired if they were for sale and the person said, yes, and they are the last ones we have today. Well, there you go. You just never know and it certainly doesn’t hurt to ask!

Shenk’s Homestead Sour Mash Whiskey is a limited edition release celebrating Kentucky’s whiskey-making heritage and part of Michter’s Legacy Series. Founded by John Shenk in 1753, the distillery became known as Michter’s in the 20th Century. This small-batch, full-bodied whiskey is made using traditional sour mash methods in Kentucky, with a significant amount of rye and aged in toasted French oak barrels from the Vosges region, imparting a unique finish and rich mouthfeel.

Bomberger’s Declaration Distillery Bourbon pays tribute to the former Bomberger’s distillery from the 1800s and later as Michter’s in the 20th Century. This 2023 release is a small batch 108 proof Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, continuing the tradition of offering a bold and beautiful 108 proof Kentucky Straight Bourbon. It features a rich and complex flavor due to aging a portion of the bourbon in Chinquapin oak. The oak was seasoned for three years, toasted, and charred to exact specifications. Malted rye was also used in the production of this bourbon.

Wayne and I were excited to taste these side-by-side. Please be sure to read our approach to Tasting Whiskey if you haven’t already.

Shenk’s Homestead Kentucky Sour Mash Whiskey by Michter’s

Mashbill – Undisclosed but with “significant” rye.
Age – NAS (at least 4 years)
Other – 2023 Release; Batch 23D1490; Bottle 911 of 2836
Proof – 91.2
Price Paid – $119 (plus tax)

Appearance – Dark amber.

Aroma – Toffee, vanilla, light butterscotch, spices, a hint of smoke.

Tasted Neat – Very smooth and creamy and different from what was experienced on the nose as it is less sweet and more savory. There is a coffee note with dark chocolate and burnt caramel. The wood from the barrel is present as is a smooth spiciness and a hint of honey.

Finish – Like the palate, the finish is smooth and savory with black pepper and baking chocolate.

Tasted with dried cranberry – The cranberry brightened the otherwise deep, dark notes of Shenk’s. There is additional spice and some zesty notes that were very refreshing, although a completely different experience.

Tasted with a pecan – As often happens, the pecan brought forward even more wood and dark notes. The chocolate is dark and inviting with a nice white pepper and oak finish.

Tasted with dark chocolate – This option brought the coffee forward with chocolate, caramel, and black pepper. It is incredibly creamy and with a nice finish as well.

Bomberger’s Declaration Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey by Michter’s

Mashbill – Undisclosed but some malted rye was used
Age – NAS (at least 4 years)
Other – 2023 Release; Batch #23E1948; Bottle 427 of 2386
Proof – 108
Price Paid – $129 (plus tax)

Appearance – Rich mahogany 

Aroma – A lot of wood influence with vanilla cream, burnt caramel, honeysuckle, stewed cherries, baking spices, and a hint of nuttiness.

Tasted Neat – First, there is a terrific mouthfeel that is creamy and truly coats the palate. Sweet notes of butterscotch, toffee, molasses, and cherries greet the palate. Cardamon, dark chocolate, graham crackers, and a hint of mint are welcoming mid-palate. As it reaches the back of the palate, the cinnamon, nutmeg, black pepper, and tobacco join the journey.

Finish – Medium to long finish with warm backing spices, coffee, oak, mint, and barrel char.

Tasted with dried cranberry – The cranberry really changed it to a tartness of lemon zest with a finish of white pepper.

Tasted with a pecan – Again, the pecan brought the wood forward and a strong cinnamon finish.

Tasted with dark chocolate – This was tasty and very creamy with coffee and chocolate followed by cinnamon and white pepper on the finish.

Discussion and Final Notes

This is somewhat difficult to select which we enjoyed the most as each has something special to offer.

The Shenk’s Homestead 2023 Release boasts a dark amber color and offers a delightful tasting experience. Aromas of toffee, vanilla, light butterscotch, and a hint of smoke lead to a smooth and creamy texture with rich notes of coffee, dark chocolate, burnt caramel, and a velvety spiciness. The finish is smooth and savory, with hints of black pepper and baking chocolate.

The Bomberger’s Declaration 2023 Release has a mahogany color and offers a rich tasting experience with aromas of wood, vanilla cream, burnt caramel, honeysuckle, cherries, baking spices, and a subtle nuttiness. The palate is coated with creamy sweetness and welcomes notes of butterscotch, toffee, molasses, and cherries, as well as hints of cardamom, dark chocolate, graham crackers, and mint. The finish is marked by warm baking spices, coffee, oak, mint, and barrel char.

As always, it all comes down to your personal taste preferences and what resonates with you on any given day. When it comes to Shenk’s and Bomberger’s, the experience is truly remarkable. However, the depth and consistency of Bomberger’s simply resonates with us on a whole other level. From the captivating nose to the lingering finish, every sip is a journey. Being bourbon enthusiasts, Bomberger’s exquisitely crafted flavors nudge it ahead in our book. That being said, we wholeheartedly recommend trying both, and eagerly anticipate the opportunity to savor future releases.

Cheers,
Rebecca & Wayne

Photos by Rebecca Herman McBrayer

Sour mash is a process in distillation that involves using material from an older batch to start fermenting a new batch of mash. It is very similar to the process of making sourdough bread with a starter. Using sour mash has the benefit of consistency between batches. It also reduces the possibility of unwanted bacterial growth. For additional information on bourbon requirements, please read this post – Four Stages of Making Spirits.

Bourbon Whiskey: Made in the U.S, distilled at <= 160 proof, barreled at <= 125 proof, aged in new, charred oak containers, bottled at >= 80 proof. Straight bourbon means it is aged at least 2 years (and must have an age statement if less than 4). In addition, to be Kentucky Straight Bourbon, it has the additional requirement that it must be produced and aged at least 1 year in the state of Kentucky. For additional information on bourbon requirements, please read this post – Bourbon Whiskey.

NOTE: The whiskeys in this review were purchased by us. We were not compensated by the spirit producers for this review. This is simply our opinion based on what we tasted on this day. Please drink responsibly.

Four Stages of Making Spirits

03/03/24
By Rebecca Herman McBrayer

Full disclosure – I am not even close to being an expert on making spirits. My minimal knowledge base has been gained through many distillery tours, watching videos, and reading books on the this topic. If you desire to make spirits, you will need a lot more information than provided in this basic overview.

While the process for making a spirit can be complex and varied, at its core, there are four basic stages: Mashing, Fermentation, Distillation, and Aging.

MASHING GRAINS

Mashing is the process of adding water to milled and/or malted grain, heating it, and activating enzymes in the grain to convert starches into fermentable sugars. All parts of this equation are important. You need a good water and that is typically considered water that is calcium-rich and iron-free. The temperature of the cooking process is critical because if too low or too high, the activation of the enzymes does not happen. When “just right” the mash becomes starchy and thick and looks a lot like oatmeal. Once cooled, it can be transferred to the fermentation stage.

Sour Mash versus Sweet Mash

Sour mash is a process in distillation that involves using material from an older batch to start fermenting a new batch of mash. It is very similar to the process of making sourdough bread with a starter. Using sour mash has the benefit of consistency between batches. It also reduces the possibility of unwanted bacterial growth.

Sweet mash is a process in distillation that does not use the sour mash as a starter for fermentation. Instead, only fresh yeast is used. Using sweet mash has the benefit of more control over specific ingredients and the ability to use lower temperatures for fermentation. However, it does require more maintenance and extreme cleanliness to avoid contamination.

FERMENTATION

The goal of fermentation is the creation of alcohol. The basic formula is:
Yeast + Sugar = Alcohol + Carbon Dioxide.

During the fermentation stage, yeast is added to the mash and it begins converting the sugars in the mash to alcohol and carbon dioxide. The fermentation stage typically requires three to five days but it could be longer as well. Ultimately, the product of fermentation is 8-18 percent alcohol by volume (ABV). The fermented mash is then ready for distillation.

SPIRIT DISTILLATION

This is a Pot Still at Copper & Kings

In general, the purpose of distillation is to separate alcohol from water through evaporation and condensation. The fermented liquid is heated until the alcohol evaporates. The vapor is then cooled and condensed back into a liquid.  This process purifies and concentrates the alcohol.

In the spirits world, there are three primary classifications of stills in production:
1. Column stills provide a continuous process and are very efficient. This type of still is currently very common in the bourbon industry.
2. Pot stills are considered more traditional and are often used for smaller batches.  Some Distillers in the bourbon industry prefer a pot still because they appreciate the flexibility and control and believe they produce more flavorful spirits.
3. Hybrid stills, as the name implies, combine features of pot and column stills.

BARREL AGING

Barrel storage at Bardstown Bourbon Company

Barrel aging is an important step in the whiskey-making process. A transformation occurs when a clear spirit is placed into a barrel and interacts with the wood. As it evolves, the spirit gains color, aroma, flavor, and complexity. Whiskey could age in a barrel from two to twenty-five years.

For bourbon, a requirement is that it is stored in a new, charred oak barrel. The charring process opens the wood and prepares it to receive the spirit. Without being overly scientific, during a warm season, the liquid expands and is absorbed into the barrel. In a colder season, the liquid contracts and exits the wood while bringing the colors and flavors with it.

This relationship with the barrel creates the color we expect from bourbon.  Even more importantly, it brings forward flavors from the wood that interact with the flavor profile of the spirit. An amazing synergy occurs, and this is where the flavors of caramel, vanilla, toffee, butterscotch are derived. In addition, the char level of the barrel can contribute spice and smoke flavors.

Understanding when the spirit is “ready” or at its peak is an experience art form. Sometimes it is the Master Distiller that makes the determination. Some distilleries have specific roles such as Head of Maturation or Lead Taster. Other times there are routine samples drawn and explored by teams of people to narrow it down. It also depends on the specific requirements for labeling – does it need to be at least two years old, does it require at least four years, etc. A particular brand might have a very specific flavor profile that is being sought and it won’t be bottled until that is achieved.

I hope this very high-level overview of the process will bring you a greater appreciation of what is in that bottle that you enjoy so much and why there are so many nuances from brand to brand.

Cheers!